Photos!

Hi all. Scroll down to the bottom of the posted photos and work back up if you want to follow the trip chronologically; we're both still learning this blog thing. Cheers.

Chidambaram. The Empire of the Chollas sculpted huge entrance gates (gopurams) at the cardinal points of their temples. They display various scenes from Hindu mythology; and with a pantheon of over 30 million dieties, there's plenty to choose from.

The portly elephant-dude is Ganesh, god of prosperity.

For the climbers: nothing like bouldering out the first ascent of a laser-cut 20 footer, on holds carved eight hundred years ago...in sandals. Yo.

Mamallapuram, on the East Coast and the Indian Ocean. A beach town with a disappointing beach: blowing filth, raw sewage, and a conservative (patriarchal) culture that inhibits women sunbathing in beachwear.

All was not lost. A very (by Indian standards) relaxed scene, a spotless hotel with a breezy balcony, and (for the history buff) a collection of superb 12th Century relief sculptures and temples carved from granite bluffs and boulders.

The sculptural tradition continues today, with the benefit of power saws and pneumatics.

Schoolkids love having their photo taken. I oblige.

Ahhh Auroville. Started by a convicted terrorist-turned-guru, it was concieved as a place beyond national authority, a place for personal and communal betterment. Sound new age and hippy? It is: the gold-plated golf-ball in the photo (the Matrimandir) was designed for solo meditation. Centered within its all-white room is the world's largest single intact crystal. Rays of the sun beam down upon the crystal and the seeker, concentrating energy, and...i have no clue. It's also strangley high-tech: computerized panels follow the sun to provide maximum brain-wave saturation.
Day and I have decided a year or so in Auro is mandatory before we die: free room and board, and nothing but sunshine and free time.

The climax, literally, of Karthikai is the lighting of a giant torch on the summit of a nearby peak. What you can't see in the photo is that the peak is coated in an inch or so of black, gooey, sticky, highly flammable ghee (clarified butter). Only a matter of time before the whole thing lights up and immolates everyone...which, come to think of it, is likely a sure way to achieve moksha (release from the cyle of reincarnation).

And why light a giant torch on a hill? Shivaites worship lingams, or phallic symbols of Shiva. In the sanctum sanctorum of every Shiva temple lies a giant phallus coated in milk, flowers and other less identifiable offerings. The mountain is itself believed to be a giant lingam, and the torch a representation of its...power.

Quite the sausage party, hmm?

View of the temple complex and Tiru from halfway up the mountain. We hiked barefoot (a sign of respect to Hindu holy places) 1500m in mid-day sun. Hot. Steamy.

Another pilgrim...

Smog, fifteen-hundred year old temples, and sadhus. The festival brought out the all the excess and overload India is known for. Crowds of believers crushed against the temple gates, chanting and throwing offerings of coconut, incense, flowers and ghee (clarified butter) into the flame. At Karthikai Shiva is worshipped in his Agni avatar, the lord of fire. Fumes from burning tires and garbage smothered jasmine and incense.

Sadhus are wandering holy men who have renounced their possesions and given their lives to ritual dedication. They are often very, very high. Some choose to fast, smother themselves in ash, live without clothing or shelter, and practice self-mutilation. We watched a 900 year old man, stooped and broken, pull a wooden chariot/shrine along the road. It was attached by metal barbs through rings in his back: each movement tugged and strained at flesh.

The sadhu above merely wanted a donation, and a look at the photo. Thumbs up, apparently.

On to the rural village of Tiravannamalai (Tiru). We were there for the Karthikai Festival, when 500,000 Shiva Hindu pilgrims descend on the town to worship a giant burning phallus on the hillside. Of course we had no booked accomodation. The friendly barber recommended the neighbourhood mosque shown above...a deserted old relic with a stunning marble and stone interior, and a room so filthy we couldn't dignify it with a photo. Day slept soundly through the swarm of biting whatevers. We awoke to the haunting melody of the mosque-keeper's 5:00 AM morning prayer; a rather special experience.

Hi all! We arrived in Bangalore in South India after 48+ hours in transit, and settled in to enjoy the lovely courtyard view from our first hotel. Relatively overpriced at 500 INR, or about twelve dollars a night: luxury don't come cheap.

quick update

We made it to India and it is FABULOUS! the Hindu Shiva festival was amazing. we are now heading to the beach...ahhh....spent the day whizzing around Punducherry on a scooter out to Auroville, a new agey-humanity project community started in the 70s...driving on the left side in chaotic indian traffic was a wee bit scary at first, BUT I LOVED IT!...Shilo was a great navigator on the back...should have seen all the stares and laughs we got from the Indian men! just wanted to give a quick note, to let all know we are well and HAPPY! More later, with pics too!
xoxo
day

Never-never-land in transit area of Singapore airport

Well, in true Jones form we failed to think through the 20 hour layover in Singapore. Upon booking the tickets we were all keen on sleeping the hours away in the airport....Later, once we had decided on attending the crazy busy Hindu festival 200km south of our landing destination of Bangalore on our 1st day in India we decided to get a hotel in Singapore to rest up. BUT we didnt book anything.

So once we were checked in at Vancouver airport we tried to email a few hostel/budget hotels. Hoping that once we arrived in Singapore the bookings would be confirmed. Ha. No such luck. And of course we only ticketed our luggage through to Singapore, assuming we would be staying in the city. So after a few hours of going through security to pick up our bags, and viewing the fancy 5* airport hotel for $280/night, and the lounges that charge $50 for a 3 hour nap.... we have basically resigned ourselves to the original plan.

Luckily for us, Singapore airport is the "BEST" transit airport in the world. Free internet, movies, music lounges and "cheap" transit hotels...which of course are all currently fully booked. But come 8am our time we will have a 6 hour block in the transit hotel for $70, which once we looked at the hostels, plus transit to and from the airport its pretty much the same.....

SO more to come once we land in India.
xoox
day